My very first visit to Mexico was January 1996. I was recovering from a horse injury on the East Coast, and planned the adventure with two girlfriends via letters and long distance phone calls. I flew out to meet my friends in Santa Fe in early January, and we traveled down to Tucson together. We met some backpackers who had just returned from Mexico, and they told us the train was the best way to travel on a budget. They also mentioned a beach they had been to, we had to go. Maruata, Michoacan became our first destination.
We crossed into Nogales and made it to the train station on the far side of town. The second class train cost $9 from Nogales to Guadalajara. We bought our tickets and were on our way! The train ride was 36 hours. I can't imagine taking that train again, but in that time of my life it was truly and adventure. The train was packed full of indigenous families transporting their crafts. Every stop there was an influx of hawkers with food and drinks for sale. As we crossed through regions and landscapes the local flavors changed. Some stations would have extended stops, and we would get off and walk around. We always left someone in charge of our belongings though, I had my boots stolen from under my seat while I was sleeping. I was given the nickname "Flor" during this first train ride amidst my first 36 hours in Mexico. Another story for another journal entry!
The days of traveling by train in Mexico are long over, they privatized the train in 1998 and there are very few passenger trains left in Mexico. This was an incredibly sad moment for me, when the trains stopped carrying passengers. Between 1996-1998 I traveled from the US border to the Guatemalan border via train several times. I traveled on the train from Mexico City to the Michoacan Coast and back again. I have the best memories from this time, I got to see the real Mexico, away from roads and civilization. Traveling through Chiapas by train was probably my favorite experience; the warm tropical weather, the colorful clothing, the wildlife out the windows, the jungle waterfalls right next to the train tracks.
The indigenous artisans of Mexico used the trains as an affordable way to transport their crafts across the whole country. I'm sure the change hit them the hardest. I hope someday Mexico decides to bring it's passenger trains back, although I'm pretty sure I'll spring for the first class train at this point in my life.
You must take after your old man. When I was in Japan, one could buy a platform pass for 10 yen and ride back and forth all day, as long as you got off at the same station where you embarked. The only time I ran into problems was once when I got on a spur line that ended in a station where I had to cross over to another platform to return to the main line. I have to admit I played the gaijin (foreigner) card and claimed I was lost. The platform agent kindly escorted me to the departure platform, gave me detailed directions for my return to Sannomiya station, and placed me on the soon-to-depart return train. After that, I took care to stay on lines where trains in opposite directions departed from opposite sides of the same platform.
That practice remained with me in Philadelphia, where your brother and I spent many Saturdays exploring the subway system without having to leave the platform in any station.